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| A View of Sagar Village from the trek route |
Similar to previous years, I prepared my travel gear for a journey to one of the Garhwal Mountains in the Land of GOD.
The goal was to visit the fourth temple in the Panch Kedar circuit, the sacred Rudranath. Rudranath is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, located in the Garhwal Himalayan mountains in Uttarakhand, India. I had already completed treks to the other four Kedars in the past. However, this time, I harboured doubts about reaching the summit due to various physical ailments, including a meniscus tear and general fitness concerns. Consequently, I kept my plans confidential within a smaller group.
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| At Netaji International Airport |
Our group, consisting of myself, Sunanda, Atanu, and his wife Sutapa, along with Suman and Swaraj, embarked on a flight to Dehradun. We spent the night at Hotel Rudra in Sagar, strategically located on the Gopeshwar - Kedarnath Road, to kick-start our trek early the following morning. While Sunanda and I had a planned return date of October 11, the rest of the group aimed to return on October 9.
Sunanda and I charted a challenging course, a 22 km trek each way to reach the Rudranath temple over four days. This natural rock temple, situated at a lofty 3,600 meters (11,800 ft) above sea level, is nestled within a dense forest of rhododendron dwarfs and Alpine pastures, making it the most demanding of the Panch Kedar temples to access.
The journey commenced with a 6 am start from Sagar, following the payment of the entry fee. The trail guided us through enchanting forests, mesmerizing waterfalls, and picturesque meadows.
This trek presented us with steep ascents, descents, numerous passes, deep gorges full of wild flower, and a challenging yet rewarding path through the breath-taking Himalayan landscape, ultimately leading to the ancient temple. During the entire journey, I encountered devotees chanting "Har Har Mahadev," and this spiritual resonance profoundly touched my soul.
On our first night, we chose to stay at Kalchand camp, reached at 5 pm after passing campsites at Chandrakoti, Gimgima pani, and Pung, covering almost 7 km.
There are quite a few campsites in this route which serves food, basic overnight staying facilities and common toilets.
The second day started at 6 am, and we reached Lyuiti Bugyal at 3 pm, covering a total distance of only 5 km. Climbing up to Mauli Kharak campsite, a 3 km stretch, was the most challenging part, leaving us completely exhausted. Lyuiti, compared to other camps, offered the luxury of WC facilities and iron cots. The hospitality provided by Kishan Singh Bist was a delightful bonus.
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| A view of Pung from Kalchand Camp |
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| At Moulikharak camp |
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| Lyuiti campsite |
Leaving Lyuti, we
commenced our journey early at 5:40 am, with a goal to reach Rudranath
by evening. This segment of the 10 km trail involved high passes with
steep climbs, no camping sites after Panar, and no water sources before
Panch Ganga.Moreover, most of the trail led above the treeline, where the thin oxygen added to the challenge. Nonetheless, the surrounding landscape was a balm for the mind and Soul.
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| Captured from between Luiti and. Panar. |
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| Steep path leading to Panar |
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| Panar Bugyal |
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| A view from Panar Bugyal |
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| Track to Pitradhar Ridge |
The majestic Himalayan peaks, including Nanda Devi, Trishul, Chaukhamba and Nanda Ghunti, contributed to the grandeur of Panar meadow and Rudranath.
As I rested at the summit of Pitradhar mountain pass, a lively young girl named Anushua from Kolkata joined me. She was alone and expressed her desire to complete the trek together since dusk had already set in. During our brief conversation, she surprised me by recognizing me by name and mentioning a prior conversation we had shared regarding work at CINI! Her father was friend of Dr. Chaudhuri.
I gladly welcomed her as a companion, as by then I had grown weary from trekking alone with my guide cum porter Harshvardhan Panwar (9756358539).
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| The trail through Panch ganga |
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| Dev darshini at 7pm |
Upon arriving at Dev Darshini at 7:00 pm, we caught our first glimpse of the temple, which was only 1.5 km away. Also this is the point where I felt completely drained of energy! As I descended the steep slopes, my legs started trembling. It was Harshvardhan who provided the much-needed support, gripping my hand to assist me on the way down. I eventually summoned the strength to arrive at Rudranath past 10 pm and shared a room with nine fellow pilgrims, including my friend Sunanda at the first accommodation owned by Tinku, which is next to Narad kund.
Woke up in the crisp, early hours of a bright morning at Rudranath was a truly enchanting experience. The first thing that struck me was the gentle cool mountain breeze, a reminder of the pristine beauty of the Himalayas. As I opened my eyes, the soft sunlight filtered through the small opening of the door casting a warm, golden hue on the world around me.
Stepped outside in three layers of warm clothes, I couldn't help but be captivated by the panoramic view of the towering peaks in the distance, their majestic presence dominating the horizon. The serene tranquility of the place, combined with the picturesque landscape, instilled a sense of peace and awe in me. My senses were immediately awakened by the invigorating aroma of the mountain flora. The lush greenery and the vibrant wildflowers painted a vivid tapestry on the meadows. It was a morning of serenity and solitude.
Rudranath, with its breathtaking beauty and spiritual ambiance, felt like a place where one could truly find harmony with nature and one's inner self.
Spending
two nights at Rudranath allowed us to dedicate quality time for puja,
peaceful meditation in Lord Shiva's temple, and receiving a rare flower,
phen kamal, as a blessed gift from the pandit. The evening arati at
Rudranath was extraordinary. The resonance of conch shell, drums, and
buffalo horn reverberated through the valley, crafting a celestial
ambiance.
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| Entrance to Rudranath Temple |
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| Rudranath Temple |
Throughout
this entire trek, the weather and my guide Harshvardhan, played pivotal
roles in making the trip exceptionally memorable. They were like
guardian angels in disguise.
Note: The top is relatively high in elevation for any beginner level trekkers and therefore I strongly recommend a reasonable level of physical fitness. I also advise trekkers to physically and mentally prepare themselves prior to this trek as this is moderate to hard trek.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Kolkata to Dehradun by morning flight. Night halt at Devprayag (by car)
Day 2: Devprayag to Sagar.
Day 3: Sagar to Kalchand camp (trek)
Day 4: Kalchand to Lyuiti camp (trek)
Day 5: Lyuiti to Rudranath (trek)
Day 6: Rudranath
Day 7: Rudranath to Sagar (trek)
Day 8: Sagar to Haridwar (by car)
Day 9: Haridwar
Day 10: Haridwar
Day 11: Haridwar to Dehradun (by car); Dehradun to Kolkata (by flight)
Contact Numbers:
- Guide Harshvardhan Panwar: +91 9756358539
- Car dezire Kailash : +91 9410996642
- Kandi : +91 7217376685
- Hotel Rudra: +91 9720970701
